1000 Mile
Four Directional Run - 2004
The Run
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PeaceHq |
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1000 Mile |
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Wednesday, May 12th, 2004 
Fran Hardaway, “Big Dale”, and Larry Crane pulled into the Pow Wow Grounds on highway 20 in the Kickapoo Native American Reservation, Kansas after a 12 hour drive from Kentucky. We arrived in a cool dusk with a nip in the air and the fragrance of campfire wafting through the campground, a beautiful setting along the Delaware river with medium to large trees scattered throughout for shade. Jim Toren, Jon Burkindine, Dewey, Peggy, and their 18 year old son Greg Jessepe and his friend Charles greeted us with much hugging and back slapping at the metal framed tent enclosure set up by Dewey as a center of activities at the camp.
The sweet smell of chicken noodle soup hit me just about the time my stomach growled. As we sat there enjoying our bowl of soup; Ralph, Joanie, and 10 year old Kyle Nesbit wheeled their van into camp loaded with their gear and massive amounts of food they had gotten donated in their home town of Hutchinson, Kansas. As we unloaded their free food next to the already impressive pile of groceries that Peggy and Dewey had accumulated (some from Harrahs casino at Potowatomi and a lot from the Headstart program there at Kickapoo ), we expected that although short of runners/walkers for this run we were surely going to eat well, and we weren’t to be disappointed. The usual light hearted pre-run camp banter was sailing back and forth ; Big Dale ( a notorious 30 mile a day runner on the 1996 Longest run ) asked teenage Greg “You a runner?”, “Yes I am!” says Greg, “How many miles will you run tomorrow?” asks Dale, “I’ll do 5 miles” says Greg, “Your no runner!” says Dale good-naturedly as everybody chuckles. As we huddle around the campfire a major cold front comes through with the hint of the rain to come, and there is serious undertone discussion of how we can cover 250 miles the next day. As yet there are only 7 walk/runners in camp, but the concern was put to bed and postponed until 6:00 am when Jim and Dewey will rouse the camp. So far all we have done is eat well, meet some new friends, and renew comradely old friendships. Til the AM ! |
Participants "Big" Dale Van Fleet Fran Hardaway Jim Toren Jon Blickenstaff Jon Burkindine Larry Crane Tyler Vega Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Going Home Home |
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Thursday May 13th, 2004 
The road can be a harsh taskmaster. A gentle rain fell all night and preceded a cool grey drizzling dawn that was announced by a blinding flash of lightning followed by a long, long rolling thunder. The dubious distinction of being blessed by the Thunder beings jolted us awake.
The task we faced today was to string our miles together toward the east in somewhat less than ideal conditions with an admittedly short handed crew. Jim Toren(the road manager as well as runner) and Dewey Jessep the Kickapoo co-ordinator, camp manager, fire keeper, support driver, and route organizer discussed that many of the people who had committed to the run didn't show up to start. It was decided to go as far as we could with the people at hand, but especially to make it as far as Leavenworth Federal Prison to honor Leonard Peltier. The theme for the days miles and prayers was dedicated to Leonard, and we all hoped he would somehow know what we did. The group for the day was Greg Jessepe (Dewey and Peggy's 18 year old son), Jim Toren, Jon Burkindine, Big Dale (the note worthy Mojave distance runner), Ralph Nisbet, and Larry Crane. All were pledged to at least 10 miles for a goal for the day of 60 miles, however if this wasn't enough to get us to the prison all were willing to do more miles. As I said the conditions weren't ideal (45 degrees, raining, with winds gusting to 35 - 40 mph), but isn't it funny how the Great Spirit will test us at times to see how strong our committments really are! It was a dreary cold day, but somehow the spirits were high, and when spirits are high, and challanged commitments are strong, and adrenaline flows, and when mutual support uplifts, remarkable things can be accomplished. My first of two 5 mile sections was on Hwy 73 somewhere in northeastern Kansas. I pulled my parka tight around my face and went headlong into the storm, of course being of Scottish descent I felt like it was perfect weather for a Highlander. The second section found me still on Hwy 73 nearing the prison, and yes it was still windy, rainy, and cool. By the 3rd mile of this section of my walk my legs were beginning to tire and ache so I prayed to the Great Spirit to give me strength to go on as I thought of how small my sacrifice really was compared to what was asked of Leonard and somehow it kept me going. That and the thought of 5 other pairs of feet hitting the ground in prayer as my comrades also pushed themselves through their miles and ceremonies. As it turned out Ralph walked the last 5 miles of the day and passed the prison on his way to 3 miles within Missouri where we picked him up safe and sound but sore and tired along with the rest of us. We made it back to camp by around 4:30 and by then the rain had stopped and it cleared for our evening meal. The runners/walkers were all cold and wet but soon we were all in dry clothes and gathered around the campfire warming our bones. We were served a great meal of barbecue chicken, slaw, potato salad and cake for dessert after which we again settled down around the campfire. Because of the unseasonably cool weather the campfire became a main focal point of our gathering and interacting and sharing stories and knowledge. An elder named Lorenzo and Charles and Dewey and others had generously laid up a good store of dry firewood for camp use, many thanks to all who helped. Dewey's cousin Irvin came to camp this night and shared stories with us around the campfire, but by then some of the crew had already gone to bed and by dark, I think all run/walkers were asleep to prepare for the next days challange and commitment. |
Participants "Big" Dale Van Fleet Fran Hardaway Jim Toren Jon Blickenstaff Jon Burkindine Larry Crane Tyler Vega Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Going Home Top Home |
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Friday May 14th, 2004 
Dewey had made a walking/running staff for the group (Footprints for Peace) in appreciation of the new beginning of the yearly 4 Direction Run tradition that had been interrupted since 1995, nearly ten years ago. The staff is a leather-wrapped piece of wood with an open hawks talon on the top facing up, attached to a dream catcher, next a thong loop is attached with 4 eagle feathers through which you hold the staff as the eagle feathers dance in the breeze, and finally just below the bottom attachment of the thong is a stars and stripes beaded into the leather. He presented the staff in circle to Jim Toren, organizer of Footprints for Peace. When all in circle and the staff had been smudged, Dewey took it and prayed over it in his native tongue. I dont know what he said, but I felt like he was asking Creator for strength and safety for all who may carry His sacred artifact in prayer, honor, and respect. Thanks Dewey, this honor has great meaning for all of us and we will do our best to live up to it in the right way! Dewey further honored us by a telling of how his people, the Potawatomi were known as the "Keepers of the Fire" and the significance of their relationship with the Fire. The lore is handed down from father to son, and constitutes a sophisticated teaching system about wisdom and respect for Mother Earth and the Sacredness of all life. That explained the mystery as to how Dewey had started 2 morning campfires from nothing but the coals of previous campfires that had been rained on all night!
For the day we were down to 5 walk/runners commited to 10 miles each for a goal of covering 50 miles, but we were to receive an unforseen bonus that would give us all a boost. I guess as the eldest ( or perhaps the craziest since the first section of road had virtually NO shoulder), I got the honor of carrying the staff on its first prayer-miles. Out of the campground I was cheered by my mates as I headed down Hwy 20 towards Hwy 75 where we would turn south, our direction for the day that would carry us through the Potawatomi res. Within the first of my miles a great blue heron flew over me from left to right, an auspicious omen for one surnamed Crane. The asphalt pavement extended only about a foot outside the white sideline of the road where it then took a precipitious plunge into the ditch along side the road. I spent most of my morning jumping from one side of the sideline to the other attempting to avoid either getting run over by the intermittent traffic or falling headlong down into the ditch, or worse both. Joanie and Peggy were in Ralph and Joanies van monitoring my progress and trying to help keep me safe, thanks. As I tried to focus my prayer (which wasn't very easy, by the way) a revelation of sorts came to me about how my survival gyrations with the line were very similar to experience in my life. I had spent many years actually jumping from Creators "good" side of the line to tricksters "bad" side of the line as I struggled to understand life in general, tried to overcome some really poor habit choices (smoking,drinking,etc...you know the drill) in youth, and sought some kind of higher meaning in all of it. By the Creators Grace I finally made a Concious Choice to live the rest of my life trying my best to stay on Creators side of the line, and although I still falter and fail sometimes, because of affirming and reaffirming that Concious Choice I am more at peace and it does become easier to stay on the right side of the line. So take heart and make that Concious Choice to live on the Creators side of the line! When I finished my first of 2 five mile sections I noticed a red Potawatomi Rescue Squad SUV sitting on the roadside watching me, and I was later to learn that he was dispatched to help keep our walk/runners safe on the highway. We recieved great support and hospitality from the Potawatomi, many thanks. Joanie and Peggy shortly picked me up and we went to wait for Ralph and our little bonus for the day, Kyle, Ralphs young son who had decided to get out on the road and walk with his Dad. Kyle added a significant unforseen bonus of 5 miles to our days total, way to go Kyle. The young ones are our future and it always raises my hope to see them taking part, maybe we will have a next generation to pass our tradition on to after all. We went on down the road where we found Dale at the end of his 10 mile run and picked him up and Ralph, without a worn out Kyle, jumped out for his second 5 mile section. Somehow my second 5 mile section was the last leg of mileage for the day, so I started and finished the commitment for the day, and got the honor of carrying the staff first and last today. I jumped out of the van onto a graded dirt road that ran across the Potawatomi reservation, remote and very little traffic, just the opposite of my first section. Off to the west I could see a huge steam plume coming up from a nuclear power plant about 20 miles away, so I dedicated the prayers for these miles to ending and healing the effects of these techno-monsters. I was within sight of the pick-up van when, again, a great blue heron flew over me from left to right, sore and tired I was but still strong in spirit, heart, mind, and soul. The Harrahs casino at the Potawatomi reservation donated 75 free box lunches, so we assembled the entire group (including those left behind to watch the camp) at their beautiful newly built Pow wow grounds to eat lunch. After a hearty lunch, including chocolate chip cookies, we recieved a tour of the park facilities and then because Dewey is a volunteer firefighter at Kickapoo, we recieved the VIP tour of the state of the art, $7.6 million Fire and Rescue facility where for a finale we got to see them go out on a run. Obviously the tribe is putting the resources from the Harrahs casino located there to good use, and someone is displaying superior management skills. 
A sore and tired, but Spirited group, long on willpower, straggled back into camp around late afternoon. Many dove into their bedrolls for a nap before dinner. A surprise dinner of chili and soup was cooked up by Deweys cousin, Irvin, a multi-talented former Screaming-Eagle (101st Army Airborne, joining Big Dale for 2 in camp) Vietnam veteran, we had met the night before swapping tales around the campfire. His effort on our behalf as well as his culinary skill was to be greatly appreciated before the run was over. Jim had to leave us temporarily to go to the Kansas City with Dewey to pick up reinforcements in the form of Jon "the Marathon man" Blickenstaff, a veteran and talented long runner from Cinncinati, guaranteed to raise the spirits of the group! He was responsible, however, for yours truly struggling on the next day, because he kept me up way to long with his witty, scintillating, and brilliant conversation. Til the AM.
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Participants "Big" Dale Van Fleet Fran Hardaway Jim Toren Jon Blickenstaff Jon Burkindine Larry Crane Tyler Vega Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Going Home Top Home |
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Saturday May 15th, 2004 
As usual Jim's wake up call seemed to come an hour or two to early, but we all managed to drag our tired and sore bodies out of our beds, grab some coffee, and head for the campfire that Dewey had again managed to coax back to life. There is on all runs, as they tend to start early in the morning, that brief period of perhaps an hour where everyone sits or moves around not really saying much, while our brains get up to speed, just enjoying each others company and the anticipation of the tough but inspiring day to come. It may be one of the most fulfilling and love sharing times of the day in an inexplicable way. You just have to be there to know it.
After our morning regimen of coffee, a little food, and circle, we loaded up to go out to the road for the day. We were going to the west today and divided up into two vehicles: Fran was driving and doing support for; Larry-10miles, Cathy-10miles, Ralph-10miles, and Kyle-5miles for a total commitment of 35miles; Dewey was driving and supporting; Jim-10miles, Jon Burkindine-10miles, Jon Blickenstaff-15miles, and Dale-10miles for a total of 45 miles. Our total for the day was boosted by our new walk/runners to a run high of 80 miles. The narrow shouldered section of Hwy 20 out to Hwy 75 had been covered yesterday so we started todays run at the intersection of Hwy 20 and Hwy 75. The first runner was cheered out and went north on 75 towards Hwy 36 which we were to stay on, going west, until we finished the miles. My first 5 mile section found me at the 75 -36 intersection under clear sunny skies with cool temperatures, as the perfect walk/run weather continued. Making the turn, I was surrounded by a massive roadway construction project as they 4 - laned the intersection, that and the high traffic volume kept me preoccupied and contributed to my difficulty focusing and concentrating on my mission. I struggled more to make it through this 5 miles than any thus far, but the thought of my comrades and the added walk/runners inspired me to go beyond my suffering and doubt and push through to the end. Another good epiphany was the reward for perseverance as I realized that out on the roadside, struggling within yourself to go on, melts away everything that relates to so called normal day to day living. It is just simply you and the road and the commitment and mission at hand. There is a freedom, focus, and simplicity that is almost overwhelmingly compelling. We like to joke that once you start down that road, it is hard to stop. 
Fran and the crew picked me up and we headed for where we would do our second sections of miles. We passed a couple of the runners, but when we passed Jim he waved us over. He was struggling also and being diabetic needed a little food to recover, so he ate an orange and drank some water and carried on. Fran dropped us off one by one and again I pulled the end of the train, last miles. Ralph and Kyle got out to walk together again this afternoon and Kyle contributed another 5 miles. So far everyone was finishing their miles and feeling pretty good. For some reason my second 5 miles went easier and as I carried the staff toward the pick-up van, I said a prayer for the Little Blue river when I crossed it.
Back in camp, we discovered that we had indeed (due to the efforts of our new contributors) improved our commitment and covered 80 miles for the day. To our great joy we also discovered that Irvin had returned to prepare bisquits and gravy and frybread, and Joanie had cooked a wild turkey for our dinner. This and the slightly diminishing mound of food in the metal framed tent assured that we would continue the trend of eating like kings and queens. The process for eating was very informal. The food was on the cook fire and available when anyone wanted to partake. Some went for showers, some for their bedrolls for a well deserved nap, and some went for coffee and the campfire. The camp was a very free flowing process. 
A humorous tradition may have started today. As we gathered for the start of the miles this morning, Dale walked up to me and handed me the nipple from a baby bottle that he had found on the side of the road (there is a tradition of passing around odd or humorous objects found on the road side during the run), with a complete strait face he said "Here, you might need this today, it helped me alot." As the laughter grew and more people saw the object, pretty soon we were all guffawing to beat the band. Well unbeknownst to all of us Jon Burkindine got the nipple and put it on a water bottle. That water bottle became known as the Whiner of the day award, so that whenever anyone began to whine and moan or complain they were promptly presented with the bottle amidst howls of goodnatured laughter by all those around. The joke continued (you can imagine the witty and outrageous variations everyone came up with) until the end of the run and I hope and believe it will become (because it was so effective in keeping everyone from bitching and moaning in a humorous and positive way) a permanent icon and award of the run.
And now for some brilliant and astute quotes from the runners: Urrrrrhhhhmmmm - Big Dale I hate it when I lose the nipple! - Jon Burkindine I dont knnooww - Jim As you can see deep fatigue is beginning to set in. Do you suppose that long distance cross country road side walking and running could cause brain damage? I think your intrepid roadside reporter has proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that it can at least cause extreme silliness! Back to the serious business, the group is growing again! Jim and Jon went to the airport and picked up Tyler Vega an experienced runner from Seattle, Washington, Ralph and Joanies friend Anna from Hutchinson, kansas arrived and Tuska and Raquel from the Leonard Peltier committee decided to stay and help us do some miles tommorrow! Hurrah! It is a great sign that the run is getting stronger as it goes along, hopefully it will get stronger each year that we do it. I extend a heartfelt invitation to all who read this to come and join us for the run next years run, for you see, we know that the smallest pebble thrown down the mountain can start a mighty land slide. More of Deweys friends and elders Charlie and Lorenzo stopped by along with Charles and his mother, and Two Dogs and his son. A much larger group finished the night with music and great conversation around (you guessed it) the campfire.Til the AM. |
Participants "Big" Dale Van Fleet Fran Hardaway Jim Toren Jon Blickenstaff Jon Burkindine Larry Crane Tyler Vega Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Going Home Top Home |
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Sunday May 16th, 2004 The lineup for the day was: Tuska and Raquel (from Free Leonard Peltier Committee) would lead off with 5 miles because they had to head home after their miles, Kyle decided he would walk with them. Anna and Joanie would do 2.5 miles together, Cathy commited to 5 miles, and Ralph and Larry commited to 10 miles each; all rode in Ralph and Joanies van driven by Fran. In Jims van driven by Dewey were Jim @ 10 miles, Jon Burkindine @ 10 miles, Jon Blickenstaff @ 15 miles, and Dale @ 10 miles. The total only came up to 90 miles, and only if everyone finished their miles. Jon burkindine had injured his foot the previous day and wasn't sure he could go that far today so our goal was in doubt, although I knew if we got close there would be volunteers to go farther than their commitments. So we headed for the road to see if we could make our goal. We started the day at the corner of Goldfinch Rd. and Hwy 120 under sunny skies with the warmest temps we had seen all week - highs in the high 70's. With the warm weather everyone was down to shorts and t-shirts and most carried a bottle of water with them. We cheered kyle, Tuska, and Raquel  out on their beginning miles and headed out for our respective sections. Most of my first 5 mile section was on a small rarely used road that proved to be a delight to walk down. I was enjoying a beautiful walk in the country when I approached a small town in the distance. The town was Reserve, Kansas, and was the core community for the Sac and Fox Reservation. I was the one from the run that got to walk through the reservation, and I noted as I passed neat rows of houses that one had a sweat lodge behind it, and I wondered if perhaps next year we could come and share a sweat ceremony with the people. I got about a mile past Reserve where Fran picked me up. Down the road we went and picked up all our walkers so we could leapfrog the runners to our next section of miles. Anna and Joanie were feeling good and decided to double their mileage to 5 each and Ralph and I still had our second 5 mile sections to do. Unfortunately, Jon Burkindines' injured foot put him in the van after 5 miles so it was difficult to project if we could break the 100 mile barrier.
As we moved up the road to our next mileage sections we began to pass the runners, and when we passed Jon Blickenstaff  who was running 15 miles we stopped to give him a well deserved water break. We must have entered a new county or something on the section of road for Ralph's second 5 mile section; when we arrived there, we saw that the generous shoulder had become overgrown with grass and narrow. It was obvious that Ralphs last section was no cakewalk, as he resignedly got out of the van, and started walking. Fran then took me up to my last 5 mile section, which was pretty much like Ralphs'. Fortunately for me (if you can call blisters fortunate) I had blisters on the ends of my second toes so I had switched to my hiking boots for the days mileage, and they made walking in the grassy shoulder much easier. I felt for Ralph walking behind me on his section. About half way through my section my energy level dropped to almost zero, and I was almost stumbling along. At this point I had to use the bathroom and there wasn't one for miles, so I jumped down into a construction ditch to see a man about a horse. When I climbed out of the ditch my boots got full of loose dirt and I got stung in several places by nettles I was to exhausted to notice. I walked over to a concrete culvert, sat down, and tried to clean the dirt out of my socks and boots, as I also massaged the nettle stings. I was not a happy camper, but the stings woke me up and I was able to regenerate my intensity level and push on gaining momentum as I went to the end of my miles. With the traffic, who knows maybe those nettles saved my life.
The group gathered up right after I had finished my miles to see if we needed to go on to break 100 miles for the day and we recieved some good news and some bad news. The good news was we had already completed 102 miles, the bad news was we had to drive 102 miles to get back to camp. It wasn't that bad, as we could bask in the glow of elation of meeting our goal, and a little cappacino from the convenient. I'm sure there were more than a few snores heard in the vans during the 2 hour ride back to Kickapoo. We had decided to carry on the tradition of gathering 1 mile from the camp and having all the people involved (runners, walkers, and supporters) walk and share the last mile together as a group. 
When you add the miles for the group walk of the last mile we had gone over 300 miles for the 4 day run, and we had gotten stronger as a group each day as we went along to gather important momentum for the years to come. As we walked that last mile for this years run, Tyler Vega played his flute and his music carried us into camp.
If Irvin doesn't show up for next years run we will probably starve. I dont know if you realize how much you meant to us for selflessly making sure we were properly fed, but it meant alot, especially for people who are going out each day and pushing themselves to their physical limits. I vote you a permanent member of the running and walking group, by the way, are you available to go on the road for other events, we would certainly be healthier if we had you with us on all the runs. You again provided a greaty supper of brats and polish sausage, with potato salad, and chips. Thanks from the bottom of our hearts, new friend Irvin! I agreed to ride with Jim to take Jon Blickenstaff to the Kansas City airport to catch his plane back to Cincinnati after we ate dinner. He said my job was to keep him awake while he drove, but I wanted to know who was going to keep me awake! We drank much coffee and caffinated soft drinks. The ride turned out to be a pleasure where we basked in the glow of accomplishment and talked heart to heart. We didn't get back to camp until around 11:30pm and were disappointed we didn't get to say farewell to Ralph, Joanie, Kyle, and the fair and single Anna (a massage therapist whom I'd hoped to get a message from for my aching muscles) as they had pulled up stakes and headed for Hutchinson, kansas after dinner. There was still a discussion going on when we returned and I tried to get involved but my eyelids kept slamming shut on me so I finally laid down for some well earned rest with the comforting thought that I didn't have to get up at 0 - dark thirty!!!! Til the AM, the late AM. |
Participants "Big" Dale Van Fleet Fran Hardaway Jim Toren Jon Blickenstaff Jon Burkindine Larry Crane Tyler Vega Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Going Home Top Home |
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Monday May 17th, 2004  Anyway we were all up and drinking our first cup of java by a little after 9. Sitting quietly around our last campfire til next year were Dewey, Peggy, Jim, Jon Burkindine, Dale, Cathy, Fran, Tyler, and Larry, fitting since the arrival group was the same except for adding Tyler and Cathy.
There is a mood that generally follows the end of a run, and we were all caught up in it right now, it goes like this; carrying out a strenuous commitment and mission forces you to a level of intensity not common in normal day to day living thus upon successful completion of that mission there is a natural let down. This let down is at all levels: physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual, and usually manifests in a general confusion over what to do next and /or a desire to stay and continue the experience. Therefore we spent the morning wandering around the camp doing very little and periodically bumping into each other. Fortunately there was still one last phase to our mission, today was Dewey and Peggy's wedding anniversary and we were all pledged to take them out to their favorite restaurant for lunch and celebrate. Fran, Dale, and I broke our camp and loaded the car as we planned to depart right after lunch. Cathy also was to leave for Arkansas after the meal. We all loaded into the vehicles, took one last look around at our comfortable temporary home and headed for Coyote Canyon restaurant to honor Dewey and Peggy, and to eat ourselves nearly sick since it was an all you can eat western style buffet. The food was great, the selection almost overwhelming, and the service quick. As we settled in to enjoy our meal, tales commenced to be swapped. A main topic of the conversation was how to improve on this years successful run, what worked well and what needed upgrade. Although we were happy with the way this first attempt after 10 years had gone, I believe based on how the run got stronger each day we felt like we could do better next year. Besides, that legendary long distance runner/walker and honored elder John "The Mad Cow" Toren would swell our ranks with his presence next year and give the entire process more ummphh! There came a time when we were all standing around in front of the restaurant savoring the last little bit of association together, when we had to hug and meaningfully look one another in the eyes one last time until next year. I was reminded of something a friend and Mohawk elder had said to me on parting after he had taken me to meet the Hopi elders "I'll see you down the road, maybe in this life or maybe in the next, but I will see you down the road somewhere." So I say to you, my friends, that have persevered to read up to this point in this lengthy story," the thought of seeing you down the road, somewhere as the story continues, keeps me going, never give up!" Peace and Love to you and yours--Til the AM |
Participants "Big" Dale Van Fleet Fran Hardaway Jim Toren Jon Blickenstaff Jon Burkindine Larry Crane Tyler Vega Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Top Home |